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Full Itinerary

Explore every stage of St Aidan's Way - our way, in detail. This 25-day guide provides a comprehensive breakdown of our walk, from the wild beginnings on Iona & Mull to the final tidal crossing at Lindisfarne. 

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I plan to add a link to a map for as many days as I have - these are coming soon! Adding them is proving to be more complex than I thought!

Day 01

Travel Day - Sydney to Glasgow via London

Date: Tuesday 9 - Wednesday 10 September

Route: Qantas QF1 via Singapore to London, onward flight to Glasgow, taxi to Glasgow Central.

Accommodation: Voco Grand Central Hotel, Glasgow (also used as a base to store a suitcase and spare gear during the walk).

Notes: Packed hiking backpacks here; took basic tea/coffee supplies from the room to use on the road.

Day 02

Glasgow to Iona - Train, ferries and a bus

Date: Thursday 11 September

Route & transport

  • Train Glasgow Queen St → Oban (08:21, ~3 hrs).

  • Ferry Oban → Craignure (Mull), buy return ticket.

  • Bus 96 Craignure → Fionnphort (~1 hr, no booking).

  • Short ferry Fionnphort → Iona (runs frequently, weather-dependent).

Timing: Arrived Iona ~16:00. Most sights and Abbey tours close around 17:00, last tours ~16:30.

Spiritual: Evening service at Iona Abbey (21:00) – worth checking service times ahead.

Accommodation

Iona Campsite (~20 mins walk from the village). Open field, good showers, toilets and small kitchen (microwave, kettle, power outlets).

Stay length: 1 night (you’d recommend 2 nights to slow down and begin the pilgrimage well).

Food & supplies

  • Breakfast: coffee & roll at Gordon’s Coffee, Central Hotel Glasgow.

  • Tea: scones at the Argyle Hotel on Iona.

  • Dinner: Columba Hotel (book in advance; options on Iona are limited).

  • Groceries: Iona Spar (limited supplies, typically 10:00–16:00 Mon–Sat).

Day 03

Iona to Mull (Port Nan Gael) ~20 km modified walk

Date: Friday 12 September

Our original plan: Fionnphort to Uisken Beach along Mull’s south coast. (Less common Pilgrimage route)

The common Pilgrimage way - Fionnphort to Pennyghael Campsite. More info here

Actual: Due to health concerns (blood clot), we opted for a gentler route: returning to Mull and doing a ~20 km loop around Loch Pottie and Fidden Beach instead.

Guide & support

Met Wendy Lloyd (Mull Another Way) at the Fionnphort coffee shop. Wendy was amazing. We highly recommend you get in touch with her. Wendy helped us:

  • Helped plan Mull stages and offered guiding along the south coast.

  • Organised a doctor visit and flexed the itinerary quickly.

  • Had been contacted beforehand via Zoom from Sydney – highly recommended.

  • If Jock had been well we would have walked from Fionnphort to Uisken Beach on this day, along the south coast. Not an easy trail. Wendy was going to guide us as it’s not a set route. Better than walking on the main road which doesn’t have a verge and is VERY narrow and reasonably busy.

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Accommodation

Port Nan Gael Campsite (powered site, £30; good bathrooms, kitchen, laundry; small, well-stocked shop).

Food

  • Breakfast: at Fionnphort coffee shop with Wendy.

  • Lunch: packed lunch from Wendy, eaten near Fidden Beach.

  • Dinner: The Inn at Port Nan Gael (book ahead if you can).

Weather: Heavy overnight rain and wind again.

Wendy Lloyd (right) sharing some history of Mull with Bev, on one of our guided walks along the south coast

Day 04

Mull south coast highlights

Date: Saturday 13 September

Original plan: Uisken Beach to Carsaig along the south coast.

Actual: A shortened, more exploratory day with Wendy whilst allowing Jock recovery time.

  • Short walk from campsite to Bridge of Loch Beg along the main road (narrow and not pleasant for walking).

  • Guided walk with Wendy to Scoor Beach and Shiaba clearance village (~12 km total).

  • Visit to Ardalanish Isle of Mull Weavers (traditional looms, natural dyes – including woad-dyed blue scarf). Worth a visit.

Accommodation

Second night at Port Nan Gael Campsite (moved tent near covered outdoor table to have a dry place for meals).

Food

Tip: Where safely possible, the remote south-coast route (with careful navigation) is far more rewarding than walking the Mull road.

Day 05

Mull Carsaig to Ardure/ to Oban

Date: Sunday 14 September

Official stage idea: Carsaig to Ardura, then on to Craignure and ferry to Oban.

Actual: A car-assisted visit to Carsaig and coastal walk, then back to Oban.

  • Dried gear at the campsite as much as possible before leaving.

  • Wendy drove you to Carsaig; walked to the pier and along the coast, past a waterfall and into an ancient cave on a saltmarsh headland.

  • Left a carved stone with our initials at the base of the waterfall.

  • Met Heather (who walked St Aidan’s Way solo in 2024) at Bunessan Inn (a good place to stay if you don't want to camp) Heather gave us some helpful suggestions about how she approached the walk. Gave us increasesd confidence.

  • Wendy then drove usto Craignure for the 17:05 ferry to Oban.

Accommodation

Oban Apartments (1-bed apartment, with washing machine & drying space for gear and tent).

Food

  • Breakfast: Penny Gael Community Hall cooked breakfast (£12; every sunday in season, great way to meet locals).

  • Lunch: on the walk, provided by Wendy.

  • Dinner: restaurant in Oban (serviceable but not a highlight; town very busy with tour groups).

Day 06

Oban to Taynuilt - 25km

Date: Monday 15 September

Route: First full, unmodified walking day. Oban → Taynuilt via farm tracks and minor roads (using AllTrails for route).

  • Steep climb out of Oban, then rolling farmland and forest tracks.

  • Plenty of stream water (treat before drinking).

  • Couldn’t find accommodation directly in Taynuilt, so walked an extra ~3.2 km along the A85 to reach lodging – narrow verge and fast traffic, not recommended when tired.

Accommodation

Brander Lodge Hotel & Bistro (a bit off trail; small room but on-site bistro and helpful staff).

Food

  • Breakfast: croissant & coffee at Hinba Specialty Coffee, Oban.

  • Lunch: soup and crackers on the trail.

  • Dinner: Brander Lodge Bistro (chicken undercooked; meal was comped).

Day 07

Taynuilt to Dalmally - 25km

Date: Tuesday 16 September

Logistics: Used buses creatively to lighten packs and avoid unpleasant road sections.

  • From near Brander Lodge (Crunachy Caravan Park) took 403 bus to Loch Awe Hotel.

  • Dropped main gear at the hotel, then caught bus back to Taynuilt (West Coast Motors school bus) to start the walking section with light packs.

Route: Taynuilt → Dalmally via remote glen between two mountains, crossing a saddle. No defined track: used OS map supplied by Wendy. Hard walking!

Accommodation

Loch Awe Hotel (mainly a coach tours hotel; set dinner at fixed time – slightly boarding-school feel). If possible, Craig Lodge House of Prayer would be a more pilgrimage-friendly alternative.

Food

  • Breakfast: Brander Lodge.

  • Lunch: limited supplies in Taynuilt (small post office/newsagent); better to bring food from Oban or petrol station near Brander Lodge.

  • Dinner: Loch Awe Hotel set menu.

Day 08

Loch Awe to Craig Lodge Family House of Prayer - 13km

Date: Wednesday 17 September

Focus: Shorter walking day to allow time at Craig Lodge Family House of Prayer.

  • Slow morning at Loch Awe Hotel.

  • Walked to Kilchurn Castle ruins; enjoyed a “second breakfast” from the food truck (bacon & egg rolls).

  • Continued through Dalmally (very limited services; basic shop at Glenview with coffee/cake) and on to Craig Lodge.

  • Lunch in the Dalmally community garden by the River Orchy.

Accommodation

Craig Lodge Family House of Prayer (£70 including room & food, plus we gave a separate donation). Shared dinner, worship night and morning prayer with interns and community.

Food

  • Breakfast: Loch Awe Hotel.

  • Second breakfast: Kilchurn Castle food truck.

  • Lunch: Glenview/community garden.

  • Dinner: Craig Lodge.

Day 09

Craig Lodge – Bridge of Orchy – Crianlarich - 24 km walk + bus

Date: Thursday 18 September

Route: Craig Lodge → Bridge of Orchy → bus to Crianlarich.

  • Short section on main road at the start, then mostly along River Orchy on lanes and farm paths; moderate terrain and pretty countryside.

  • Reached Bridge of Orchy and joined the atmosphere of West Highland Way walkers.

  • Drink at Bridge of Orchy Hotel.

  • Bus (Ember, booked in advance) from Bridge of Orchy to Crianlarich (~17:20). They only stop if you have a ticket.

Accommodation

Best Western Crianlarich Hotel (hiker-friendly; Crianlarich village has walking supplies, food, gas cylinders and some medical items).

Food

  • Breakfast: Craig Lodge.

  • Lunch: packed lunch from Craig Lodge, eaten on the trail.

  • Dinner: Best Western Crianlarich Hotel.

Day 10

Crainlarich to Inversnaid - 29km (A tough part of the WHW)

Date: Friday 19 September

Route: Part of West Highland Way along Loch Lomond, walked opposite direction to most hikers.

  • Muddy, rocky, narrow track with many ups and downs; streams, roots and boulders underfoot.

  • Lunch stop at Beinglas Campsite (pub & camping cabins; kitchen opens ~12:00 noon).

  • Finished at Inversnaid Hotel; stayed up the hill at Inversnaid Bunkhouse (van transfer provided from hotel – extremely welcome).

Accommodation

Inversnaid Bunkhouse & Bistro (last available bed in old caravan; shared showers and toilets; good restaurant and option for take-away lunch).

Food

  • Breakfast: hearty breakfast at Best Western Crianlarich (made sandwiches from extra bread/fruit).

  • Lunch: Beinglas Campsite pub.

  • Dinner: Inversnaid Bunkhouse Bistro (must book; no other options nearby).

Day 11

Inversnaid to Balmaha - 30 km, trail & forest track

Date: Saturday 20 September

Route: Continued along Loch Lomond; initially technical trail, then easier forestry track.

  • Shared trail with Highland Fling 53-mile ultramarathon runners (walking against race direction – needed to stay alert).

  • Honesty box stop at “Ben’s Bakes” near Rowardennan (snacks, drinks, home baking).

  • Afternoon tea and water at Sallochy Campsite (toilets & drinking water; national campsite along the loch).

  • Accommodation was a couple of km outside Balmaha, so extra walking to/from dinner.

Accommodation

B&B Arrochoile (£120).

Food

  • Breakfast: Inversnaid Bunkhouse (kept muffins/fruit for the trail).

  • Lunch: self-made on trail (muffins, apples, Nutella sandwiches).

  • Snacks: Ben’s Bakes honesty box.

  • Afternoon tea: Sallochy Campsite.

  • Dinner: Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha (book ahead; also offers accommodation).

Day 12

Balmaha to Milngavie, then Glasgow - 29 km + train

Date: Sunday 21st September

Route: Balmaha → Milngavie, picking up the John Muir Way where it overlaps with the final section of the West Highland Way.

  • Long but relatively easy day on more forgiving paths and tracks.

  • Coffee stop in Drymen, then on through farmland and small villages.

  • Milngavie is the traditional WHW start/finish point; frequent trains to Glasgow (~every 30 mins).

Transport & accommodation

Train Milngavie → Glasgow. Stayed again at Voco Grand Central, Glasgow.

Food

  • Breakfast: B&B in Balmaha.

  • Coffee: in Drymen.

  • Lunch: own food at Oakwood Garden Centre in Killearn.

  • Dinner: in Glasgow (many options near Central Station).

Day 13

Rest day in Glasgow - zero walking

Date: Monday 22 September

Focus: Laundry, journaling, rest and a little sightseeing.

Used this day to drop off camping gear (tent, sleeping bags, mats, etc.) at the Voco Hotel for storage until the end of the whole walk, reducing pack weight to around 8 kg.

Accommodation

Voco Grand Central Hotel, Glasgow (base hotel).

Food

Meals around Glasgow; plenty of cafés and restaurants.

Day 14

Kilsyth (Croy) to Falkirk - 23 km canal walking

Date: Tuesday 23 September

Route: Glasgow → Croy by train, then walking along the Forth & Clyde Canal to Falkirk.

  • Train to Croy (best access point to reach the canal).

  • Initial route-finding confusion: AllTrails path not really there; needed to bush-bash through brambles by the train line to reach the canal.

  • Flat, easy canal-side walking, watching boats in the locks.

  • Time at the Falkirk Wheel – a fascinating rotating boat lift.

Accommodation

Park Hotel Falkirk (£150; convenient but not especially charming).

Food

  • Breakfast: in Glasgow before the train.

  • Tea: self-made on the canal bank.

  • Lunch: Falkirk Wheel café.

  • Dinner: Park Hotel.

Day 15

Falkirk to Linlithgow 22 km canal & riverside

Date: Wednesday 24 September

Route: Continued along the canal, then diverted via riverside path into Linlithgow.

  • Mostly easy canal-side walking.

  • Crossed the impressive Avon Aqueduct.

  • From the aqueduct, followed the River Avon into town instead of staying on the canal – prettier and more varied.

Accommodation

Linen Bank B&B, directly opposite Linlithgow Palace (£90; very central).

Food

  • Breakfast: Park Hotel (took croissants for the trail).

  • Tea & scones: Auntie Ann’s in Polmont (small detour from the canal).

  • Dinner: 4 Mary’s Pub, Linlithgow (recommended, lively atmosphere).

Day 16

Linlithgow to Livingstone - 18km

Date: Thursday 25 September

Route: Rolling countryside out of Linlithgow with first views of the east coast, then town walking into Livingston.

  • Nice rural walking to West Binny Farm hill, with views towards Queensferry Bridge and the Firth of Forth.

  • Final section into Livingston mostly through industrial and town areas.

  • Could not find accommodation in Kirknewton, so stopped in Livingston instead.

Accommodation

Bankton House Hotel (self check-in, no breakfast; £100).

Food

  • Breakfast: café in Linlithgow. No breakfast service at the Linen Bank Hotel

  • Lunch: own food on trail.

  • Dinner: at Bankton House Hotel.

Day 17

Livingston to West Linton - 22 km, remote & off-road

Date: Friday 26 September

Route: Mixed, mostly off-road walking through remote countryside and the Pentland Hills.

  • Walked along the Thieves Road on the Cross Borders Drove Road – well waymarked.

  • All off-road, no places to buy food en route; needed to carry all supplies for the day.

  • Saw just one other person all day – very peaceful.

Accommodation

Gordon Arms Hotel, West Linton (£95; pub, no breakfast).

Food

  • Breakfast: Trail Bean Coffee near Livingston South train station (Co-op next door for supplies).

  • Lunch: soup and crackers on trail.

  • Dinner: Gordon Arms Pub.

Day 18

West Linton to Peebles (bus to Innerleithen) - 23 km + bus

Date: Saturday 27 September

Route: West Linton → Peebles on Cross Borders Drove Road, then bus to Innerleithen for accommodation.

  • Steep climbs at the start, then mixture of woodland and farmland.

  • Trail well marked; good variety of terrain.

  • No suitable accommodation in Peebles during our dates, so caught the X62 bus to Innerleithen.

Accommodation

St Ronan’s Hotel, Innerleithen (£100; no evening meals served).

Food

  • Breakfast: small Co-op in West Linton (grabbed food before starting).

  • Lunch: on trail.

  • Dinner: Traquair Arms Hotel in Innerleithen (very busy; book or go early).

Day 19

Innerleithen to Melrose (Southern Uplands Way) - 20 km

Date: Sunday 28 September

Route: Bus X62 to Caddonlee, then walked along Southern Uplands Way to Melrose.

  • Southern Uplands Way signage generally good, though not perfect.

  • Some steep hills but good variety of views and terrain.

  • Melrose is a lovely town; Melrose Abbey well worth a visit. Also the start of St Cuthbert’s Way.

Accommodation

The Town House, Melrose (£150; one of the nicer stays).

Food

  • Breakfast: St Ronan’s Hotel (basic, served 08:30–09:30).

  • Coffee: #1 Peebles Coffee near the bus stop.

  • Lunch: packed trail lunch eaten in Galashiels (in town, on edge of an oval).

  • Dinner: The Ship Inn, Melrose.

Day 20

Melrose to Ancrum (overnight in Jedburgh) -20 km, start of St Cuthbert’s Way

Date: Monday 29 September

Route: Started St Cuthbert’s Way at Melrose Abbey, also touching parts of the Abbey Way.

  • Option to choose St Cuthbert’s Way (over big hill) or Abbey Way (between/around hills).

  • Easy steady uphill; ended up on an old railway track and missed some of official St Cuthbert’s Way, but it was still pleasant walking.

  • Caught Border Bus #68 from Ancrum to Jedburgh for overnight stay.

Accommodation

The Royal Hotel, Jedburgh.

Food

  • Breakfast: The Town House, Melrose.

  • Lunch: on trail.

  • Dinner: The Carter’s Rest Pub, Jedburgh.

Day 21

Ancrum (Harestanes) to Kirk Yetholm - 24 km

Date: Tuesday 30 September

Route: Bus back from Jedburgh to near Ancrum, then walked St Cuthbert’s Way to Kirk Yetholm.

  • Border Bus #68 to Harestanes, close to the start of the day’s section.

  • Good climb early on; classic St Cuthbert’s Way landscapes.

  • Option at the end to take low road into Kirk Yetholm (road) or high road over the hill; you chose the low road.

  • Picked up a St Cuthbert’s Way stamp in Kirk Yetholm.

Accommodation

The Border Hotel (£180; also the northern end of the Pennine Way).

Food

  • Breakfast: Royal Hotel, Jedburgh.

  • Lunch: Morebattle Village Community Store (good little resupply and snack stop).

  • Dinner: The Border Hotel.

Day 22

Kirk Yetholm to Wooler 22 km, into England

Date: Wednesday 1 October

Route: Left Kirk Yetholm on steep hills and high hill paths with heather and grouse, crossing the Scotland–England border and glimpsing the sea.

  • Lots of high-level walking with expansive views.

  • Gainslaw Hill Farm gave some of the first real glimpses of the ocean.

Accommodation

No 1 Hotel, Wooler (£120).

Food

  • Breakfast: large Border Hotel breakfast (important as there are no shops in Kirk Yetholm for trail food).

  • Lunch: trail food (soup, crackers, tea) plus bread & jam taken from breakfast.

  • Dinner: No 1 Hotel pub. Tried to eat at highly rated Ad Gefrin whisky distillery, but it was closed on Wednesday.

Day 23

Wooler to Beal - 22 km, approaching the sea

Date: Thursday 2 October

Route: Wooler → Beal via beautiful English countryside and St Cuthbert’s Cave.

  • Restocked at Wooler Co-op in the morning.

  • Gentle walking on small hills and field paths.

  • Visited St Cuthbert’s Cave (special spot; lunch in nearby woodland).

  • Wonderful moment coming over a hill and seeing Holy Island ahead for the first time.

Accommodation

The Lindisfarne Inn, Beal (£160).

Food

  • Breakfast: No 1 Hotel.

  • Lunch: on trail near St Cuthbert’s Cave.

  • Dinner: The Lindisfarne Inn.

Day 24

Beal to Lindisfarne (Holy Island) - 9 km Storm conditions

Date: Friday 3 October

Planned ideal: Classic barefoot pilgrims’ crossing over sand at low tide, following the line of poles across the sands.

Actual: Amber weather warning from Storm Amy – 70 mph winds. Not safe to use the pilgrims’ track; walked across the road causeway in extreme wind and rain instead, struggling to stay upright and keeping a close eye on sea levels.

Accommodation

Lindisfarne Hotel B&B (£150).

Food

  • Breakfast: The Lindisfarne Inn.

  • Lunch: back at Lindisfarne Inn while waiting for safe tide window (low tide ~15:00).

  • Dinner: The Manor House Hotel, Lindisfarne.

Note: In calmer conditions, aim to walk the pilgrims’ path in bare feet at safe tide. Always check tide tables and local advice, and never take risks with the sea.

Day 25

Lindisfarne to Glasgow - taxi + trains

Date: Saturday 4 October

Route: Holy Island → Berwick-upon-Tweed → Edinburgh → Glasgow.

  • Pre-booked local taxi from B&B to Berwick-upon-Tweed station (timed with tide and causeway opening).

  • Train Berwick → Edinburgh → Glasgow (~2 hours total).

  • Returned to Voco Grand Central in Glasgow to collect stored luggage.

  • Celebratory drink with Wendy, closing the circle of the pilgrimage.

Accommodation

Voco Grand Central, Glasgow.

Food

  • Breakfast: Lindisfarne B&B.

  • Lunch: on the train.

  • Dinner: in Glasgow.

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