About this Journal
This journal was written during our pilgrimage walk from Iona to Lindisfarne following parts of St Aidan’s Way and St Cuthbert’s Way across Scotland and northern England.
What began as a an idea of a pilgrimage walk slowly became something deeper. From an idea to an experience.
Over weeks of walking — through rain, wind, fatigue, silence, conversation, prayer and ordinary moments — the journey became less about reaching a destination and more about paying attention. Attention to God, to one another, to the landscape, and to what was happening within us.
These entries were handwritten each evening, in a small A7 notebook, usually at the end of long days on the trail. They are intentionally lightly edited. What appears here is not a polished spiritual recount, but an honest pilgrim journal — sometimes joyful, sometimes uncertain, sometimes boring, sometimes weary, sometimes full of clarity.
Along the way themes kept returning:
• small steps and long journeys
• surrender and control
• marriage and companionship
• resilience and limitation
• mountain tops and valleys
• burden and release
• the movement from striving toward grace
The walk began on the shore of Iona carrying a stone we each picked up from that shore, placed in our packs and ended on the shore of Lindisfarne, where we layed them down.
Some things changed during that journey.
Some things are still unfolding.
This journal is offered in the hope that it may encourage other pilgrims — whether walking ancient paths across landscapes or quieter paths within their own lives. Transcribing these notes for this website, is as much about a process of connection for me as it is about anything else.
“Small steps each day = a big journey over time.”
Thursday 11 September
Today we travel from Glasgow to the Isle of Iona. A long journey — Glasgow to Oban via train, then Oban to Mull by ferry, then across Mull by bus, then finally a ferry to Iona!
We’re on the train now, backpacks over packed — not much room for food lol. I wonder what we’ll dump out as we go?
We’re leaving behind our family, grand babies, friends and our older parents. Dad still in hospital recovering from a broken hip & collarbone, Jock’s Mum adjusting to her new living situation.
Still trying to narrow down my “why” pilgrimage. Seek Jesus, connect physically, mentally & spiritually. Leave something behind? Not sure what I need to leave behind though. The beginning of something new? What?
Some random thoughts about Pilgrimage:
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Gospel of Jesus is very simple:
“Come follow me.” In the movement we find salvation and His kingdom. -
If we stop moving — we die.
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“Wandering is a formula for supreme blessing, because the Blesser himself is a wanderer.”
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The Sermon on the Mount is best read when you’re walking.
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“Don’t worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will bring worries of its own!”
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“Lose your life on the road with me and you will find it.”
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“Get up, get out, wake up, walk on, open your eyes, ask for new eyes … it’s here because I am walking.”
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Pilgrimage to leave things behind.
A step? A beginning? I leave behind the things above that stop joy during the course of the journey (the abrasion of the road), and at the end where your burden is thrown off or renewed is realised. -
Be a seeker.
Friday 12 September
I’m sitting in a little church near Fionnphort, Mull. I’ve started our pilgrimage on my own.
Jock has gone to see a local doctor with a suspected DVT. Not a great start but it’s the one we have!
Spent last night camping on Iona — wild, wet & windy in a spot about 25 min walk from the main village.
We went to a service in Iona Abbey. Lovely to share a service — albeit a little political for my liking — good to be near God’s people no matter their “bents” I guess.
I love praying in a space that has had hundreds of years of worship in it.
My walking verse today:
“You are the salt of the earth. But if the salt loses its saltiness how can it be made salty again? It is no longer good for anything except to be thrown out and trampled underfoot” — Matthew 5:13
Saturday 13 September
Jock’s leg is still quite sore. The doctor feels he’s O.K. to continue — just take it easy.
We are adjusting our pilgrimage as we listen to our bodies.
We’ll camp at Pennyghael campsite for the next two nights and Wendy Lloyd will help us modify our time on Mull. We’ll see most of the south coast trek but only walk about 1/3 of it.
The rain & wet weather is a challenge! Camping in the rain is not for the faint hearted!
Walked to Loch Beg Bridge and then walked to Scoor beach and Shiaba (a site of a village from the highland clearances - ruins) Lovely.
My walking verse today:
“You are the light of the world. A town built on a hill cannot be hidden...in the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your father in heaven” — Matthew 5:14–16
Sunday 14 September
Adjusting to being on a pilgrimage. It’s as much an internal framework as a physical one.
As we adjust the physical to what is going on (not walking as much because of Jocks DVT, for example), I need to keep a pilgrimage mindset. It’s not a physical goal on its own but a spirit / way of being.
Had a lovely breakfast in a community hall with the locals of Pennyghael. Reminded us of the Brunch Cafe back home.
Had a short walk, then a drive.
Met with a lady named Heather who had done St Aidans Way before a year or so ago — helpful info. Built a bit of confidence for me.
We have long days ahead. Hopefully we’ll be O.K.!
Monday 15 September
Stayed in Oban in an apartment last night. Chose it for the washing machine — which didn’t work. Threw me for a bit! Had to handwash all our gear.
We did get to dry out our tent and camping gear from a very wet 3 days on Mull. We’re a little gun shy now about camping in the rain.
A lovely walk from Oban to Taynuilt. 25 km across back country lanes & farms. Exhausted when we arrived at Brander Lodge. Our first full day of carrying our packs.
Pilgrimage thought & verse for the day:
Living from the inside out, not outside in. Doing the work on the inside, not doing it on the external things. When we orient on Jesus, He flows out of us.
"Jesus answered, 'Everyone who drinks this water will be thirsty again but whoever drinks the water I give them will never thirst. Indeed the water I give them will become in them a spring of water welling up to eternal life.'" John 4:13-14
Tuesday 16 September
Walked from Taynuilt to Loch Awe near Dalmally. With a bit of wrangling (buses were involved 😊) left our packs at Hotel Loch Awe so walked only with our day packs.
Very hard walking up a beautiful glen over a steep saddle and a steep descent into Dalmally. So glad we didn’t have our full packs!
No verse today but a couple of thoughts:
There seems to be a process of acceptance to your circumstances. At first I resist the discomfort, then I resent it, then I finally accept it and just keep moving. Then success and overcoming. So much of life is like that!
Simplified version - I can do hard things!
Wednesday 17 September
A short day of walking. Went to see the ruins of Castle Kilchurn on Loch Awe. Then walked to Dalmally. Adjusted our walk so that we could stay the night at The Craig Lodge Family House of Prayer.
Both Jock and I feeling a little edgy about our time. Trust in the process? Yes!
Met some lovely young intern missionaries from around the world - 1 Australian woman. Joined in their Wednesday evening praise and worship session. I nearly didn't join in but very glad I did. Amazing to be on the other side of the world, in a remote part of Scotland, worshipping together to Jesus. What a privilege to be here!
Some lines of worship songs from the House of Prayer that I connected with:
'Spirit of the living Lord, fall afresh on me, awaken my soul' Awaken me from my sleep.
'Let my people go so they may worship you"
'Break through my soul, so I may overflow'
These were beautiful - thank you that I went. (Albeit reluctantly). I have been feeling so "dulled" in myself, so closed down and these lines chipped away at a layer of my soul. Continue to set me free, may I worship you and be connected to you.
Thursday 18 September
Leaving Craig Lodge Family House of Prayer feeling touched and connected to God. So enjoyed connecting with the young people. They prayed for us as we went on our way. I wonder if we will ever see the young aussie lady we met there again?
Today we head to Bridge of Orchy then we’ll catch the bus to Crianlarich for the night.
An easy 24 km walk (relatively). Not much rain.
Had a drink at the Bridge of Orchy pub as we waited for our bus to Crainlarich. First time we have seen other hikers. These hikers are doing the West Highland Way.
We are doing this part of the West Highland Way but in the opposite direction to everyone else.
Friday 19 September
Started out early.
Read Oswald Chambers - was quite fitting:
"Are you going with Jesus? The way goes through Gethsemane, through the city gate and on outside the camp. The way can be lonely and goes on until there is no longer even a trace of a footprint to follow - but only the voice saying, 'Follow me' "
Today was a hard day.
The trail is rough, muddy, narrow, rocky, uphill & downhill and long.
We were tired when we arrived in Inversnaid.
A good meal & a hot shower go a long way at a remote bunkhouse.
Jock’s leg & knee are worrying him. Hopefully we’ll be O.K.
Loch Lomond
Saturday 20 September
Today we made our way from Inversnaid along the Loch Lomond shore to Balmaha. The first half was similar to yesterday but the rest was a bit easier.
We were walking at the same time there was an ultramarathon happening — “The Highland Fling” race. Crazy people!! Built differently. Amazing stamina and endurance.
Jocko and I talked a lot about our ideas for our lake house — making it a beautiful place for family, friends - always room for 1 more. We have differences in priorities in how to actually make it happen, but the ultimate goal is the same.
Also talked about becoming authentically us — each living out of our true selves. Our life force energy being clear and generous - not filtered or obscured - "let your light shine before men..."
Sunday 21 September
Today we walked our longest walk — 28 km from Balmaha to Milngavie. Quite as easy walk - just long. Its our last official section of the West Highland Way.
Jock is quite sore & tired.
I got my first blister. Very happy generally though about how my feet/shoes have been going. Love my merino wool toe socks!
The past couple of days we've put our earpods in for the last hour or so - just when we need to "grind out" the last 5 kms or so! Good music in your ears as you watch beautiful scenery move around you. Amazing how much it helps.
Caught the train from Milngavie to Glasgow for a two night break. Laundry, rest our bodies, planning and a catch up day. Yay!
Had a wonderful dinner at Banca di Roma in Glasgow — great Italian food & wine.
No great thoughts today.
Monday 22 September
Our eldest son's birthday today - so love him 🥰 Enjoyed talking to him - proud of the man he is, and is becoming.
Rest and recovery day in Glasgow.
Feeling tired and grateful for a day to not wear hiking gear, not have to walk very far, not have to carry a pack!
Spent the day doing laundry and travel prep for the next 11 days hiking.
We’ve decided not to camp anymore — so our packs will be lighter. Leaving our camping gear at this hotel.
Not feeling very "pilgrimage like" today. Both a little jaded — it’s probably part of the process. Trusting our hearts will recentre as we leave Glasgow tomorrow.
The break has come at a good time.
Tuesday 23 September
Back on the trail today.
Caught a train to Croy then picked up a part of the John Muir Way trail.
Walked to Falkirk — an easy 20 km walk, along the Clyde River canal.
Amazingly I got to see the Falkirk Wheel in real life. I had heard about it a few years ago - wasn't sure it was actually a real thing - haha. The technology and design fascinate me. Such a lovely surprise to spend time around it. Tried to draw it - drawing is definitely not my strength but find the process quite restful.
It’s good to be back on the trail. We felt well rested but a little discombobulated from our time in the city. Forward movement makes sense to us at the moment.
We discussed what our stones may represent, what we may throw off at the end (if anything!) Maybe it isn't a big thing we need to throw off and it may be but a small change now that can make a big difference over time. A small percentage change in our trajectory leads to a greater angle of change over time. Trust in the process!
Wednesday 24 September
Jock’s lost a bag with his meds & other vital toiletries, this ended up being quite stressful. Had to find a way to access his blood thinning medication - the NHS was very helpful.
Pilgrimage thought: We often look for the big heroic thing to give up, the grand gesture, but God is telling me it's the tiny things must go. Not as glamorous, no quick fix but a continuation of small decisions, choices made over a lifetime.
Today felt part of the "spirit of perseverance" — maybe the mid section of a “marathon” or journey can feel hard.